Winter Tours Ski Touring – Kosovo & Albania 23/24

At Prishtina international airport, a member of our local partner will be waiting for your group transfer to the first accommodation at Sharr mountain range along the North Macedonia border (82km, 1h 30min).

Brezovica is a delightfully semi-functional 1980-s ski-resort more like an icy fossil from Yugoslavia times. Not far from the small village of Shtrpce, inhabited with Serbian community, snowstorms hit the north-facing 2400m of rugged ridges and wind-protected sweeping ridges of the surrounding Dukagjini plain. If there had not been enough snow during the 1984 winter Olympics in Srajevo, the alpine competitions would have been held here in Brezovica, giving the place at 1700m international fame: it is one of the most-assured in the Balkans! We move into our apartments, and at dinner we meet with our mountain and ski guides discussing our ski touring week.

The sky is (hopefully!) immaculate blue, the mountain scenery in any case at least as grand as in the Alps and runs on untracked powder snow slopes are almost guaranteed. Depending on the lifts, our tour in the best snow of the Sharr mountains start either at the hotel from 1700m or at the highest exit point at 2200m. Two possible destinations are Piribreg at 2524m and Gurri Zi 2536m. ‘Antenas” is what the locals call the bizarre radio mast ensemble at an altitude of around 25oom and the first starting point of many descents on the ridge. If conditions permit, we will continue our climb to the majestic cone of the “Black Rock” across the snow-white scenery to North Macedonia, Albania and deep in Kosovo. Below this begins a nearly 1000m long vertical drop, fantastic downhill with countless freeride variants on high alpine terrain with steep gullies and lovely slopes for skiing-Brezovica has something good to offer! In spite of this, there is no human soul to be seen far and wide, and we often hunt alone in wide turns over square kilometer-sized, immaculate slopes down into the valley. A full first and half second day are available for the 800 to 1300 vertical meters of descent before we hve to say goodby: It follows the transfer across the Albanian border in the heart of Accursed Mountains in Valbona valley(140km, 3h30min), a ski destination like no other.

Gz 2-6h Hm± 500-1000 Day 2: B.L. Day 3: B.L.D.

When sun rises over the snow-covered glacier valley in the morning, it reveals the rugged peaks, which are criss-crossed by couloirs and shoot sky-high out of the narrow river valley. From the main road there are only a few paths that have already emerged at the bottom of the valley, we usually paddle through virgin fresh snow in a mixed tree forest of beech and pine, which gives us a view of the great peaks. The long ascents, accompanied by the sound of goats and flocks of sheeps, lead into a lonely, rugged, almost 2700m high mountain landscape reminiscent of the Dolomites or Karwendel. The big difference is that there are no lifts or other skiers. If you are looking for solitary tours in a wild mountain landscape, you will find a Mecca here! On our routes you expect pure nature. wilderness and maybe some wild animal tracks. Once at the top, we are rewarded with impressive views over the mature, steeply sloping forest and thrilling countless karst towers. Deep below us, the Valbona river winds around a collection of simple stone houses moaning under the snow load, forming the seemingly sleeping hamlet of the same name to which we descend. We absorb the silence of the mountains in us, only the hiss of the first turn of our guide awakens us from the pleasant trance and heralds the descent.

Just the overnight stay in the family run guesthouse and the resulting insights into the lives of the proud highlanders are worth the trip. Fewer than 100 families live in the valley even in winter and would have often left it without an additional income from the summer tourism. They work in subsistence agriculture and so most of the ingredients for the hearty dishes come from their own cultivation. Together with our hosts, we drink home made “Raki” at the wood burning oven and share stories. The villagers report hard life under the Stalinist regime of Enver Hoxha as well as the difficulties of transitioning to hypercapitalism, which was akin to shock therapy. Albania has opened its doors since the dictator’s death. 

From an accommodation on the valley floor or in a higher situated hamlet (900-1000m) we ascend to altitudes up to 2400m. Our tour take us up to Presllopit Pass 2045m high, or White Circle at 2100m, towards the peaks of Rrogamit 2472m, Grykat e Hapta 2656m, Rosi 2523m, or Jezerca peak 2694m, the highest in the Accursed mountain range and in the whole Dinaric Alps. If unstable conditions and avalanche risk keep us from the dizzying, almost vertical runs (for which the valley is famous), we will find safe options for deep snow descends on the wooded, less steep slopes. So we will leave the Albanian Alps, even if we do not rise to their steep slopes, certainly not disappointed towards Korab mountain. A transfer (160km, 4h) at the end of the second day of skiing takes us to the foot of the highest mountain in the country on the eastern border with North Macedonia. Gz 3-6h, +- 900-1500m

Even today Dibra region is rarely visited and visitor’s only arrive in summertime for the ascent of the Korab summit, and it is famous for its warm hospitality even within Albania itself. The highest peak in Albania and North Macedonia, the real highlight of our trip, is reached on one of our last two hours. Our destinations are the great Korabi with 2764m of altitude and his little brother Korab 2683m. You will be separated from a spacious alpine high valley by finding the most beautiful runs. The long but technically unpretentious climb is rewarded with panoramic views over North Macedonian and Albanian eastern highlands. On the way back to the village of Radomire, our own ascent tracks will probably be the only ones we cross on the enjoyable descent. We will stay in a guesthouse in a small charming village of Radomire.

After our second ski touring, we will return to Kosovo (80km, 2h 15min) and explore the cultural capital of the youngest nation in Europe at the foot of the Sharri mountains. Prizren’s cityscape is influenced by the Ottoman style cobbled stone narrow streets, more than 40 mosques in the city, catholic and orthodox churches, dervishi tekkes, and much more. 

Gz 7h +- 1500 Day 6:B.L.D., Day 7: B.L.D.

Note: Program sequence may change due to current weather/snow conditions.

Group size: 6 – 8 people